Hello all, how´s things? Thanks again everyone for comments and reading. I apologise for incoherence in last blog. I hear there´s a winter wonderland over the south east at the mo which sounds fun. If only those budget Lapland themeparks had got a few more reindeer in they´d probably be raking it in now.
So, I am in San Salvador as above, a little bruised and tired but ok. I got off the plane into the 32 degree heat fairly exhilarated to be alive and walked out to spot Amber in the arrivals bit which was fun. Also a bit of a relief considering the lack of Plan B preparations we had made in case this did not happen (like exchanging adresses or phone numbers). Amber is an old pal from school who lives out here and works as an artist. We haven´t seen each other that much since school so it´s very lovely to be here with her. We go to meet her man Baltasar (why cant English men have epic names like this?) for some food and in between my chatting, Amber reveals that her and B are to tie the knot which is blimmin exciting! This is followed by a further announcement at lunch and the excitement levels are almost too much for my little brain. After a nice bit of nourishment (steak sanger) we go back to Amber and B´wicked flat (all artistic and everything) to inform Emsy and Pippa (friends from this same heady era of wine swigging in school toilets) of the exciting news that has just been shared.Goodness some of us are getting grown up. That´s 3 of my nearest pals that are getting wed this year, a little earlier than the Office of National Statistics records for women of the UK I see. I have a lovely little area in their flat made up and from the window I can see a volcano which makes a change from the car park out the back in Willy G. There´s also a man with a gun, lots of trees, a beautiful breeze in the evening and some street dogs.
On Friday and the weekend, we spent time visiting places around San Salvador which has been fun and lots to take in. One of the first things you notice here is the high level of security. Guys with guns seem to guard most of the establishments here. A little unnerving to have these instruments of death casually dangling at their sides like extra limbs which are sometimes cocked at unnerving angles. You hope they´re wearing sensible footwear. I looked as we drove through the city and saw them not just outside banks but places like the Palacio de Postres (Pudding Palace). This is taking the biscuit I thought! A trifle uneccesary surely? On Friday Amber and I head off to Illopango, a lake near the city. We drive through an area called Soyapango, on of the poorer neighbourhoods and home to some of the ´mara´gangs. There´s 2 major gangs out here- 18th St. and Mara Salvatrucha. Lots of them are comprised of guys who were sent back to Salvador fromthe US- predominantly from LA. There´s a film being released about them called ´La Vida Loca´- we watched a trailor of it and it looks horrendous. Part of the marking of gang territory seems to involve tatooing gang names and symbols onto members´(including womens´) faces.
The lake was very peaceful. There was a woman washing in the lake (herself and her clothes). It is also home to the San Salvador diving club. Maybe I should give it a go? We drive over to see Amber´s mum who is from here. It´s nice to see her after a long time. We chat about things, drink frescas (fruit drinks), eat a corn-based snack (cbs´s are a staple here) and have a look around the house which is fun. Amber´s Mum has 2 dogs and I see the first one who seems pretty chilled. I´m warned about the other one, a 60 lb Doberman who is very protective of Amber´s mum. Can you guess what´s going to happen next readers? So yes on the way out to the car it becomes clear that this dog is out. When I say becomes clear, I mean one moment he is in bark range, the next we are looking at each other, I then think oh shit and make for the car. And doggy takes a big bite of my leg from behind. This is rather painful and a bit of a shock. And so it transpires that just when I thought I´d had enough excitement for 48 hours I am in hospital in San Salvador getting the aforementioned wound seen to. The doctor was very nice, checked that the dog had been vaccinated, dressed me up and prescribed me antibiotics and made me feel better, along with Amber who was great. Thankyou. Let´s move on.
Amber took good care of me at home and made me ice the leg up to stop bruising and we had a chilled evening, followed by a restless night with me feeling a bit freaked out by things and a very windy wind going on outside. On Saturday we went to check out the dramatic but simple church, Iglesia del Rosario, in downtown San Salvador where the knot will be tied in a month. (Picture top left hopefully). El Salavdor is still a very Catholic country (you can see religious slogans on most of the many buses) and most get married in church, which may also include the couple attending marital workshops led by, in A&B´s case, an old-school priest, Padre Gregorio. The architect who designed the church, Ruben Latinez, has incoporated eye catching pieces made from salavaged arms from the civil war which ended officially in 1992. Downtown San Salavdor is at the bottom of a valley so can get very badly polluted. We had a wander round the markets including a whole row of hairdressers inviting us in ´Pasen..Adelante..Pase!´Lots and lots to see. We bought some delicious snacks from outside the church- Pupusas- like corn pancakes (cbs) stuffed with things like frijoles and cheese, pork and ayote (green squash like veg). These were followed by a great lunch of ceviche- a fresh pickled fish affair. I learnt more about Baltasar and the interesting places he´s lived and jobs he´s done which was fun. More on this later... Time for a blog break. Apologies for incoherence in last blog, was a bit frazzled. I note it is full of poor grammar.
Hattie- those lushious NY foods were macaroni cheese and frankfurters
Pippy- the film I watched was the atrocious ´How to lose friends and alienate people´ with the guy from Spaced. Last night I watched ´thankyou for smoking´also not great but a bit interesting seeing the main character of the tobacco lobbyist in action. Amber and I were confused by the casting of Katie Holmes. We may watch another movie tonight. I will of course keep you posted.
Love to you all. Will post some pics if can manage the technology
xxx
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